Housing your rabbit
Cages should be large enough to provide the rabbit with a food/litter area, and an open spot to move about/lay down. They should be tall enough for a rabbit to stand upon its hind legs without bumping the top. Bigger is always better, and will allow your rabbit the best chance at a happy life. Please remember, though, that no matter how large your rabbit's cage is, you will still need to take it out and allow it "play time" on the floor, to be able to stretch all their muscles, and wear off any excess energy.
There are five main options for rabbit cages. I define them as :
Commercial Plastic Bottomed Cages : These cages are among the most common, and unfortunately, usually the most inappropriate. The majority of cages are too small, especially given their rectangular shape, however even the larger ones have their issues. They are easily stained by pee accidents, and can be difficult to get clean/sterilize. They also tend to be overpriced for the size of them, and are best bought second hand. A large sized cage can cost over $100 if purchased new. They do have their place, though, and are one of the most popular cages for pet rabbits. I prefer them for younger rabbits, as it keeps any accidents contained while the rabbit learns good litter habits.
All wire cages : These can either be bought or made. Being made of all wire, with a dropping tray underneath, they are easy to sterilize, and easy to clean. They do not harbor smells or bacteria, and are less inclined to suffer rabbit related damage. I do not particularly care for these cages, but see no harm in using them, and find them useful for rabbits with poor litter habits, or who are prone to messy bums. Be sure to offer your rabbit a solid piece of floor to sit on, in case his feet get sore.
Wood structure cages : These are commonly called hutches, but can be many different styles. Often people automatically assume that a solid wooden cage has to be an outside cage, but it does not. I don't know many of the pros/cons to this cage type, as I have not yet used them myself, but I am planning to build some in the near future. The cages themselves are easily built, or you can buy them premade. What I find most appealing is the ability to completely customize them. All joints should be sealed with a silicon sealant between the two pieces of wood, and at least the lower part of the cage should be sealed with an animal friendly finish or paint, to prevent staining.
NIC/C&C cages : Commonly seen for guinea pigs, this idea can be adapted to make "rabbit condos." I love this idea, because, while it is a bit more work, it is perfect to completely customize your cage, at a lower cost. You can put your cage on a solid wood floor, into a tray made of corroplast, or give it replaceable wooden floors. One concern I do have is that a determined rabbit can open the door. Also, because there are no solid walls, any poop/pee that doesn't end up in the litter box often ends up on the floor. Often, the instructions online don't tell you that you need a top to the cage, as long as you make it tall enough, but this is not true. I have seen rabbits climb to the top of their cage, and imagine they would have kept going, had they not hit the roof!
Dog Crates : These are great because you can often find them used online at reasonable prices. They come with removable plastic trays, so are easy to clean, and if you get a larger one, you can install shelves to utilize the vertical space. Again, because there is not solid sides, you may encounter problems with waste getting outside the cage. They also tend to take up a lot of room, and aren't usually as easy to integrate into your home decor. They do, however, provide a much larger area for your rabbit at a lower cost. I have not personally used any as a rabbit cage yet, but I do have 2 on hand that can be used if needed.
There are still more ways to keep rabbits, including in colony and bunny barn type settings. These are used for breeders, though, not pet rabbits. Remember, too, that rabbits can reach things you wouldn't expect, so keep a nice clear path between rabbit cages and your valuable items!
Next - Health and Medical Care
There are five main options for rabbit cages. I define them as :
Commercial Plastic Bottomed Cages : These cages are among the most common, and unfortunately, usually the most inappropriate. The majority of cages are too small, especially given their rectangular shape, however even the larger ones have their issues. They are easily stained by pee accidents, and can be difficult to get clean/sterilize. They also tend to be overpriced for the size of them, and are best bought second hand. A large sized cage can cost over $100 if purchased new. They do have their place, though, and are one of the most popular cages for pet rabbits. I prefer them for younger rabbits, as it keeps any accidents contained while the rabbit learns good litter habits.
All wire cages : These can either be bought or made. Being made of all wire, with a dropping tray underneath, they are easy to sterilize, and easy to clean. They do not harbor smells or bacteria, and are less inclined to suffer rabbit related damage. I do not particularly care for these cages, but see no harm in using them, and find them useful for rabbits with poor litter habits, or who are prone to messy bums. Be sure to offer your rabbit a solid piece of floor to sit on, in case his feet get sore.
Wood structure cages : These are commonly called hutches, but can be many different styles. Often people automatically assume that a solid wooden cage has to be an outside cage, but it does not. I don't know many of the pros/cons to this cage type, as I have not yet used them myself, but I am planning to build some in the near future. The cages themselves are easily built, or you can buy them premade. What I find most appealing is the ability to completely customize them. All joints should be sealed with a silicon sealant between the two pieces of wood, and at least the lower part of the cage should be sealed with an animal friendly finish or paint, to prevent staining.
NIC/C&C cages : Commonly seen for guinea pigs, this idea can be adapted to make "rabbit condos." I love this idea, because, while it is a bit more work, it is perfect to completely customize your cage, at a lower cost. You can put your cage on a solid wood floor, into a tray made of corroplast, or give it replaceable wooden floors. One concern I do have is that a determined rabbit can open the door. Also, because there are no solid walls, any poop/pee that doesn't end up in the litter box often ends up on the floor. Often, the instructions online don't tell you that you need a top to the cage, as long as you make it tall enough, but this is not true. I have seen rabbits climb to the top of their cage, and imagine they would have kept going, had they not hit the roof!
Dog Crates : These are great because you can often find them used online at reasonable prices. They come with removable plastic trays, so are easy to clean, and if you get a larger one, you can install shelves to utilize the vertical space. Again, because there is not solid sides, you may encounter problems with waste getting outside the cage. They also tend to take up a lot of room, and aren't usually as easy to integrate into your home decor. They do, however, provide a much larger area for your rabbit at a lower cost. I have not personally used any as a rabbit cage yet, but I do have 2 on hand that can be used if needed.
There are still more ways to keep rabbits, including in colony and bunny barn type settings. These are used for breeders, though, not pet rabbits. Remember, too, that rabbits can reach things you wouldn't expect, so keep a nice clear path between rabbit cages and your valuable items!
Next - Health and Medical Care